Range of adjustment, because of this large gap, because if it's not quite Particularly if you look at the large distance between the slots in theĬastellated nut in pic#3 above. The lack of adjustability with the single-nut-and-cotter pin setup. That is to say, IĬan foresee problems setting the proper wheel bearing pre-load because of Manner in which the bearings and hub are retained. Ģ003) by my local suppler, in Canadian $, areĪt first I was concerned that they may be considered "unserviceable" due to the Quote to the guy at the parts counter to get the same bearing (info taken from. Alternatively, the chart below gives some applications you can Well, they areĬertainly available, you can order them by part number from any good bearing Here are the wheel bearings, with Timken numbers.īearings were non-replaceable or non-serviceable. ![]() ![]() The hole in the threaded spindle through which the cotter pin slides.īack side of the hub / brake drum assembly showing the inner wheel bearing Than individual parts) will require creative fab work. However, note that in this pic, the brake "backing plate" is welded - notīolted to the axle tube, so replacement of the whole brake assembly (rather Pretty standard drum brakeĬomponents, at least in function (I haven't checked dimensions for The trailer, remove the brakes, have the drums machined, reload everything Hauled so far that along the way, you'd have to stop, remove the home from Would this be so? I'm having a hard time picturing a mobile home being Intended to be one-time use only hauling a mobile home one way.then why You see on normal automotive drums and rotors specifying the limits to which Hub/brake drum assembly has a maximum diameter figure cast into it, the type See it in the pic, but something I found really interesting, is that the Remove cotter pin, nut, and washer and the outerīearing falls out and the hub slides off the spindle. It's simply a cotter pin, castellated nut, and washer that bear on the outer Screwdriver, and here's the hardware you have to remove to remove the hub. Once the tire and rim are removed, you pry off the hubs' grease cap with a The first step is to remove the wheel bolts and little wedge blocks that Let's tear it down and look at the brakes and bearings. This is what the wheel and hub look like assembled. This is what my first trailer looked like.īuilt in Cape Breton by a coal miner, from scrap metal taken from a WWI battleship. I can't do anything about the design, or the availability of parts, but I can share what i learned about them while I was running them. ![]() There's also not a lot of tech info out there available for them. This means thay are not assembled with service in mind, and replacement parts can be hard to come by. The drawback is, they are not really designed (and may not be legal in your area) for long-term use. Turns out, many home-built and construction-site trailers use mobile home axles as they are cheap and strong and often come with brakes. I found out later that they were mobile home axles. My first-ever trailer was a rough old home-built piece of junk with what, at the time, I called "wierd, 5-bolt wide-pattern wheel thingey" axles. Mobile Home Trailer Axles Tech Article by BillaVista
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